"Wa(e) and New" celebrates the fusion of Japan’s rich cultural heritage with modern fashion, blending traditional Kyoto-rooted products with contemporary aesthetics. Drawing inspiration from the tea ceremony’s spirit of harmony, SMerge seeks to break down the invisible boundaries between traditional craftsmanship and modern clothing, creating meaningful connections between these two worlds.

This series introduces traditional items to modern fashion enthusiasts and vice versa, encouraging audiences to explore and appreciate unfamiliar genres. At its core, SMerge has always been about exploring possibilities—revealing what can be achieved when we view things through a fresh perspective. This segment exemplifies that mission, offering a platform to showcase these creative ideas to a global audience.

For the debut installment, we spotlight the understated elegance and untapped versatility of Japanese beaded bags. Often relegated to accessories for kimonos and tucked away in our grandmothers’ closets, these bags hold a wealth of history, cultural significance, and timeless beauty.

The featured bags were thoughtfully sourced from online second-hand shops, auctions, and treasured family collections. In styling them, we paired their intricate craftsmanship with 2024 fashion trends. The goal was to preserve their cultural essence while presenting them with a fresh, modern edge—proving that these heritage pieces can transcend time and remain relevant today.

The majority of the clothing featured in this article comes from The Contemporary Fix Kyoto, a select shop in Kyoto that curates sleek and modern Japanese brands. Details of the fits, at the bottom of the page.

The History and Evolution of Beaded Bags

Beaded bags rose to prominence in the 1950s during Japan’s post-war reconstruction, as families began to afford luxuries. The growing social and economic independence of women was another key factor. With increasing opportunities to attend gatherings, enter the workforce, and make independent purchases, beaded bags became symbols of women’s empowerment. They were prized for their practicality and versatility, effortlessly complementing both kimonos and Western-style clothing. This duality embodied a bridge between tradition and modernity.

The allure of beaded bags also lies in their craftsmanship. Far from imitating Western designs, these bags showcased Japan’s embroidery heritage, with intricate beading techniques that brought depth and complexity to each piece. Their designs often drew inspiration from traditional kimono and obi motifs. For instance, the harmony of patterns seen in Nagoya obi is echoed in the artistry of beaded bags, reflecting the Japanese design philosophy of balance and aesthetic refinement.

Historically, beads have played a role in Japanese culture for over 23,000 years, as evidenced by shell beads discovered at the Sakitari Cave ruins in Okinawa. While Western-style beaded bags were introduced to Japan, their high cost made them inaccessible to most. Japanese bead bags emerged as a sophisticated yet affordable alternative for fashion-conscious women.

Challenges and a Call to Rediscovery

By the mid-1970s, imported beaded bags from Southeast Asia, though of lesser quality, gained popularity due to their affordability. By the 1980s, luxury brand bags from Louis Vuitton and Chanel further displaced Japanese bead bags in the formal market. Today, only a few artisans continue this craft, preserving its legacy amidst a decline in demand.

Despite being perceived as a relic of the past, antique beaded bags hold timeless value. Rediscovering them in family closets or flea markets, reviving their beauty, and pairing them with modern outfits bridges history and contemporary fashion. These bags not only symbolize women’s societal advancements but also resonate with modern values like sustainability, celebrating vintage treasures.

Beaded Bags and SMerge’s Philosophy

The duality of beaded bags—their external beauty and profound historical, cultural, and philosophical significance—perfectly aligns with SMerge’s vision. By reflecting on an object’s essence, its background, and the emotions it carries, we unlock new perspectives and possibilities.

SMerge hopes this series will inspire a renewed appreciation for the hidden stories and enduring beauty in the objects around us, encouraging deeper connections between the past and the present, tradition and innovation.

Look 1 

Jacket: th products (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Shirt: SOFTHYPHEN(The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Skirt: th products (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Neckless: Bijour R.I (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Glasses: Ray-Ban (personal wardrobe)

Shoes: Saint Laurent(personal wardrobe) 

Bag: Saint Laurent (personal wardrobe) 

Beaded bag: gold(online) 

Look 2

Jacket: MISTERGENTLEMAN (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Knit MISTERGENTLEMAN (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Shirt: SOFTHYPHEN(The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Inner : SOFTHYPHEN(The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Glasses: Ena Glasses Industry (personal wardrobe) 

Beaded bag: white pearl (online) 

Beaded bag: white (online) 

Beaded bag: gold (online) 

Beaded bag: gold (grandmother's chest of drawers) 

Look 3

Jacket: BED j.w FORD (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Shirt: SOFTHYPHEN(The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Shirt: th products (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Skirt: no brands (personal wardrobe) 

Glasses: Ray-Ban (personal wardrobe)

Shoes: Saint Laurent(personal wardrobe) 

Bag: Saint Laurent (personal wardrobe) 

Beaded bag: white pearl (online) 

Beaded bag: white (online) 

Look 4

Jacket: AG(R)GS (Ask) 

Jacket:  th products (The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Shirt: SOFTHYPHEN(The Contemporary Fix Kyoto) 

Brooch: Yves Saint Laurent(personal wardrobe) 

Glasses: MIUMIU (personal wardrobe)

Shoes: Saint Laurent(personal wardrobe) 

Bag: COMME des GARCONS (personal wardrobe) 

Beaded bag: black (grandmother's chest of drawers)